At Ciao Andiamo, our team is constantly traversing Italy, in search of the best new destinations, hotels, restaurants, local contacts and experiences across the Boot. This is a key part of how we deliver on our mission of helping travelers discover and fall in love with the real Italia, through a local lens.
I personally join our scouting efforts at least a couple of times per year, and each visit, whether spanning destinations old or new, deepens my connection to the country. This year was no exception.
On my latest trip last month, with my partners and fellow Ciao Andiamo co-owners, Max and Cristiana, we explored the often-overlooked region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, and returned eager to share its many wonders.
Exploring Italy’s Cultural Crossroads in Friuli Venezia Giulia
Friuli Venezia Giulia is a border region in northeastern Italy, near Austria and Slovenia. It’s a melting pot of Slovenian, Austrian, and Italian cultures, with a history influenced by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This unique blend makes it a fascinating place to explore.
During our road trip through Friuli, we found the best aspects of Italy – seaside, rolling vineyards, culture, cities, and architectural marvels – in a unique, and truly authentic region. Here wine lovers can satisfy their palates, foodies can tour local farms and osmize (more on that later), history buffs can explore Roman bridges, World War I sites and influences from the Habsburg Empire, and culture seekers can enjoy spotting the impact of neighboring cultures on this Italian border region.
A Stop Along the Coast
Roman history meets Adriatic beauty along the Gulf of Trieste.
Friuli Venezia Giulia can be visited as a stand alone trip or in tandem with other northern treasures such as Venice, Verona, Lake Garda, and the Dolomites. Our Friuli scouting began after a stay in Bergamo, with visits to Aquileia and nearby Grado. Aquileia is one of the most significant Roman settlements in the region. Visitors can tour the archaeological remains of a grand basilica, ancient city walls, and a well-preserved Roman forum. Among the highlights are well-preserved mosaics found in the early Christian basilica that offer a glimpse into the city’s rich past.
We were charmed by our next stop, Grado, a lovely seaside town with a picturesque marina. Known for its relaxed atmosphere and romantic setting, tiny Grado features narrow, winding streets filled with colorful houses and quaint shops. We strolled the cobblestone alleyways and delightful cafes of the town’s historic center, then were awed by the panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea, with Trieste, Slovenia, and Croatia visible in the distance. The blend of historic architecture and stunning sea views made it a perfect spot to unwind and soak in the local scenery.
Trieste, Duino Castle and The Rilke Trail
Coastal views, literary legacy and the elegance of the old empire greet us.
The next day we arrived in Trieste, the capital of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Rich in history and culture, Trieste was founded by the Romans and later became a key port on the Silk Road. Under the Habsburg Empire, it flourished as a vibrant center, and by the early 20th century, it attracted intellectuals like Sigmund Freud and James Joyce. Today, Joyce’s influence can still be felt, from former residences to coffee shops he frequented.
The grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire is evident in the Piazza Unità d’Italia, a vast square open onto the Adriatic Sea. We enjoyed people-watching here over a light spritz bianco aperitivo followed by a sunset stroll along the pier. The blend of history, architecture, and a laid-back city vibe made our time in Trieste memorable, with a perfect balance of culture and leisure.
On the third day of our Friuli trip we visited the Duino Castle, just outside of Trieste. Though privately owned, it is now open to the public to explore. Perched atop the cliff overlooking the Trieste Gulf, the 14th-century castle houses 18 opulent rooms, beautiful surrounding gardens and even a bunker dug 60 feet underground that served as an air-raid shelter for the people of Duino during World War II.
We paid homage to one of the castle’s most well-known guests, writer and poet Rainer Maria Rilke, with a hike along the Rilke Trail to take in the stunning sea views.
We were then able to tour the sea from a different angle, with a private boat excursion along the coast. It was a quintessentially local experience, with a stop for lunch on a small beach, at a casual restaurant serving up mussels, fried calamari, smoked fish and seafood pastas. The setting was relaxed and authentic, the seafood fresh and delicious, and it made for an undeniable trip highlight.
A Road Trip through Wine Country
Exploring family-run vineyards and countryside in Cormòns.
Even before leaving greater Trieste, we got a taste of the Friuli countryside culture by visiting a nearby osmiza – a traditional farm where local wines, eggs, cured meats, and cheeses are sold. During the Middle Ages, osmize (derived from the Slovenian word for the number “eight”), were only allowed to sell products directly to the public for eight days a year. Today the selling periods for osmize typically last up to a month and are staggered across producers, making an open osmiza well worth a stop!
Next, it was time to head to Friuli’s wine-country. Crisscrossing the border between Italy and Slovenia, we followed winding roads through the region’s beautiful hills and vineyards. We stopped in Cormòns, where we visited family-run wineries, sampling an array of Friulian wines before ending the day with a leisurely al fresco dinner, fully embracing the relaxing vibe of the countryside.
Tour & Tasting and Small Town Charm
Experiencing the region with all five senses.
On our final day in Friuli, we stopped for a visit in the historic center of Udine. The city is ancient but elegant, and its lively atmosphere is especially seen in the city’s beautiful piazzas which teem with life as people fill the bars and restaurants lining the square.
The surrounding province has plenty of noteworthy towns to explore, such as nearby Cividale del Friuli, but our sights were set on the local delicacy, prosciutto di San Daniele. A tour and tasting made for the perfect final lunch, and we finished it off with slices of delicious Gubana, a Slovenian sweet fruit and nut cake typical of the region.
In just five days we experienced Adriatic sunsets, explored WWI bunkers, and sipped and tasted our way from elegant coastal towns to rolling hillsides. With a unique blend of Italian and international influences, Friuli felt wholly itself; authentic in a way that off-the-beaten path destinations so often are. Something tells me this gem won’t stay overlooked for long!
