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Our guest blogger is Michelle Damiani, a best-selling author who has written extensively about her own travels in Italy and has co-led small group tours with Ciao Andiamo, including our Insider Journey through the Riviera in October 2024.

Preparing for a stay in Ghent, I pulled out an old journal to read about my experience in the Belgian city during my college backing trip. I hadn’t opened that faded velvet cover in a decade or two, so I never connected the dots between my fledgling venture into travel journaling and the travel journal I turned into a memoir about my year in Italy with my husband, three kids, and two cats.

That memoir has subsumed so much of my life that, truth be told, I’d forgotten about my early travel journaling. Leafing through those pages that told stories of having my clothes stolen from a Dublin laundromat and twirling pesto pasta with new friends in the apricot light over Cinque Terre, I realized anew the importance of travel journaling to document experiences that would otherwise be lost to the chaos of memory.

Comparing that early work to the memoir that came so much later, I realized something more… good travel journaling makes travel better.

1. Increased sense awareness

Most travelers only pay attention to what they see, and maybe what they taste. When you set out to create a meaningful travel journal, you notice so much more. You notice the smell of woodsmoke beckoning you to dinner. You notice the easy cadence of the banter around an Italian bar. You notice the taste of forest floor in a glass of Sagrantino wine. You notice the worn cobblestones under your feet. You notice swallows inscribing love notes into the evening sky.

In short, good travel journaling tunes you into your senses, which creates the opportunity to celebrate the moment. What a contrast to having those moments slip past, unnoticed and unrecognized.

By grounding through senses into the present, travel seems to stretch out longer. It unfolds and envelops you, like a hug from the universe.

2. Learn your travel values

Writing about your travels allows you to find your themes. Do you give most column inches to meals? You are probably a food-centric traveler (welcome to our table). Do you focus on moments when you get lost and found again? You are likely a traveler happiest with a loose docket. Do you write with the greatest gusto about watching rugby matches in pubs? I recommend seeking out sport wherever you land.

Travel is intense, with all that radio static in the form of figuring out bus routes and museum hours and how to ask for the bathroom. By writing about your travels, you cut through the clutter. You discover what matters to you, which helps you shape your travels to ensure better traveling experiences.

There are other ways to do this, of course. For instance, in this travel story, Sarah and Paul discover that by having Ciao Andiamo manage their travels, they found themselves relishing meeting locals. It’s something I’m realizing through my own travel journaling—creating connections makes travel an intimate thing, soft and human.

This is why I’m so excited to co-lead a travel journaling course in Liguria—if writing helps us discover what we want from travel, and Ciao Andiamo cuts through the travel clutter, what new values might we discover?

I can hardly wait to find out.

3. Decreased travel anxiety

This is another area, as you might imagine, that traveling with Ciao Andiamo excels—with someone managing the details, travelers are free from worry.

It’s less obvious how travel writing works to decrease travel anxiety.

I call it curating a “gather content mentality.”

This is something that barely glimmered in my early journaling but came to full force while writing my journal-turned-memoir. When your goal is chronicling your travels, low moments become plot points. What that translates to is learning to consider those inevitable challenges as CONTENT. Material for the pages of your story. This creates the kind of psychological distance required to soften your fear reaction and increase your trust in yourself. The instinct to brace for impact evaporates, replaced with a more open worldview.

Plus, once you don’t fear hardships, they become the anecdotes you trot out at cocktail parties. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve told the story of having my laundry stolen in Dublin (twice in this one article! You may spot a third!) when no one really wants to hear about pretty green hillsides.

I remember during our family gap year in Umbria when I pushed my language ability by asking our shopkeeper what kind of marinated fish he had on display. He hesitated and pointed to the tomatoes. “These?” he asked, his face creased with concern. “No, those,” I answered. “Anchovies,” he responded, though it sounded more like a question than an answer.

It was only walking home that I realized I’d asked, “What kind of peaches are these?” (pesche) rather than, “What kind of fish are these?” (pesce). I flushed with embarrassment the whole walk home, but then remembered…THIS IS CONTENT. Rather than allowing that fish shame to coil up and fester, I wrote about it with glee.

Thus emboldened, I later asked the barista at Bar Tullia what cocktail everyone was drinking on the patio. Which is how I learned about Aperol spritzes. Which changed my life. There can be no greater testament to the importance of cultivating a “gather content mentality.”

Now, this is a process, not a light switch. But with time and practice, I’ve learned to push myself further, creating experiences absent while I was busy hiding in the shadows, hoping nobody would notice me.

4. Increased travel gratitude

One thing I’ve learned is that nothing kills travel joy as quickly as “must sees”. You know what I mean: “What are the must sees in Rome?” Or, worse, “You can’t go to Rome without going to the Vatican! The Sistine Chapel is a must see!”

Ugh.

Listen, I’ve been to Rome more times than I can count, and I’ve never seen the Sistine Chapel. Even though I love art and I carry an especial fondness for Michelangelo, I have never seen his ceiling work, yet somehow my arms and legs stay attached to my body.

What I’ve noticed is that as soon as someone gets locked into “must sees” they stop seeing what they see. They become so busy checking off their infernal list or hand-wringing about what they’re missing, they race through the Rialto market and miss the shades of silver in the piles of tiny fish.

Journaling keeps you focused on YOUR experience, so it becomes easier to inhabit the belief that, sure, there are loads of possible experiences. But the most important ride is the one that you’re on.

With all the blog posts I’ve written (as a blogger, my travel journaling is in the public domain—a perfectly valid lifestyle choice if it floats your ferryboat!) and never once in the writing did I stop to worry, “Would Paris have been BETTER with a Seine cruise???”

In writing, I’m focused on chronicling MY story, not what could have been.

I have to tell you, this hasn’t just changed how I travel, it’s changed how I live. Imagine life without FOMO.

Liberating, right?

Welcome to the beautiful world of travel journaling.

5. Creating Indelible Memories

A friend recently told me that her travel journal is more precious to her than her photo album. She said that in her journal, she documents small but meaningful moments that it wouldn’t occur to her to photograph, and it’s somehow those that become the most important in her family’s story.

It made me think of those experiences made permanent in my internal landscape solely because of journaling.

My friend Concetta inexplicably breaking into “Volare” as we brushed olives onto waiting nets during the harvest. How I found myself, despite my terrible voice, joining her, our voices twining over the shimmering tree (full story here).

The moments I practically teetered into the Venetian lagoon during gondolier school, and how I righted myself by focusing on the horizon—either the distant Alps, dusted with snow, or Venice’s storied silhouette (full story here).

Walking out of a Tuscan restaurant with friends and noticing the fading light. It was the first time I realized that a good Italian lunch will take you straight through till dinner.

How could you capture any of those while having a phone so permanently in hand that it risked being plunged into a lagoon

Short answer: You can’t.

You shouldn’t.

Not only are there all those moments that are bad form to photograph—like religious observance—but as this article in the minimalists argues, photographing every moment in the moment forces you out of the moment.

A travel journal avoids all those pitfalls while creating a way to remember experiences small and large of significance to you. That journal becomes a meaningful sibling of your photo album, overstuffed with treasured memories.

Now, does simply having a written log create better travel? Not in an obvious sense, perhaps. But each time you describe a moment, that moment becomes a pearl on a string that you carry from place to place, connecting past to present to future.

—

I’ve long harbored designs to turn my backpacking journal into a book. After all, the story of trekking through an abandoned train tunnel while a friend sang opera, the search for a thrift store after my clothes were stolen from a Dublin laundromat, the half hour I spent sobbing so hard I made myself sick outside of the Mauthausen concentration camp, the old man who shared his bread and cheese with me between Marseille and Nice while he told me about his life and I only pretended to understand but somehow understood it all—that seems like an interesting read, no?

Well, no, not so much.

That journal, much as I love it, falls a bit flat. After years and years of writing, I’ve learned what it takes to create an indelible map of memories. More than that, I’ve learned to allow journaling to change how I travel. It’s not rocket science, actually. I wish I could go back and guide my youthful self.

I can’t, of course…but I can guide you. Even if you believe you lack the time or the ability or the discipline to keep a written record of your travels. I want to share my joy of journaling with you, to create a roadmap, and learn the tools of the trade to create a meaningful companion piece to your travels, all the while making travel, well…better. More satisfying.

If you, too, want a travel journal that sings, a collection of word photographs that evokes more than just a cerebral memory but captures the sensuousness of travel, then I encourage you to join me on my October trip to the Italian Riviera!

I want to help you document the flavors in a classic pesto. I want to show you themes in your writing to sharpen your focus on what matters to you. I want to help you curate a “gather content mentality” to create more openness and curiosity about Ligurian culture. I want to sink together in gratitude as we sip an Aperol spritz and look out over medieval rooftops to the blue beyond. And I want to show you how to etch those hillsides terraced with vineyards into your soul so that you’ll carry them wherever you go.

With the itinerary Ciao Andiamo has put together we’ll have excellent opportunities to hone our skills in travel journaling. We’ll dig deeper into real Italian food-ways with a risotto lunch at a rice farm, as well as a cooking class in the heart of medieval Genoa. After a visit to Portofino, the darling of Liguria, we’ll lunch on the beach as the sea gathers and ebbs before visiting a convent only accessible by water. We’ll visit Camogli, a jewel-box town on the water, famed for its trompe l’oeil and for being dear to Max, our fearless and fabulous guide, the co-owner of Ciao Andiamo, and a son of Liguria.

Together, we’ll meet people, taste flavors, see contrasts, and learn history in a way most tourists miss.

Our small group tours are the perfect immersive adventures to practice travel journaling yourself, with a dedicated tour leader to show you the special secrets Italy has to offer.

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April 3rd, 2020 – (see update on April 15th, 2020 below)

It is without a doubt that we’re all living through a very hard time, but the truth is that we are living through it as a community. As Italy is struggling and mourning its losses just as China did a few weeks ago, there’s another aspect of the story which is emerging to the worldwide attention thanks in part to national news, but mostly to social media. It’s a story of resistance, rediscovered empathy and fraternity. Here are a few pieces of happy news, in case you missed them:

The Italian People Rise Up

Many Italian celebrities started fundraising or donated a generous amount of money to support the public health system. Above all, instagram influencer Chiara Ferragni and her husband, the Italian singer Fedez, managed to raise more than 4 million euro for the construction of a new intensive care ward at the San Raffaele Hospital in Milan, which was built in only 12 days. From politicians to actors and actresses, from singers to football teams and individual players, from sports stars to big fashion names like Armani, Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino Rossi, and even the Fondazione Andrea Bocelli, all have played their part in supporting their home country.

What is even more heart-warming are the ways that common people have come up with to help one another. As soon as the lockdown started on March 9th, notes and signs appeared in apartment buildings, with younger people volunteering to bring groceries to those who had been advised to stay inside at all costs. Charities, religious associations, and even local shops themselves have arranged an extensive delivery service so that people can avoid going out and queueing too long to buy necessities.

When not working from home, people spend several hours online and on the phone keeping in touch with friends and family who live all over the country. Having video-call aperitifs and dinners can keep people both keep busy and stay happy! Social media live dance and gym classes and book readings, online cooking tutorials, and other communications can help people find beauty in such a dark period. There have even been online virtual tours of museums, open source libraries, and online concerts filling the web with culture and beauty. And, of course, singing and playing music from windows and balconies is quickly becoming a popular trend for people in isolation all over Europe, with Irish musicians performing traditional music from pub rooftops, to Germans sending a big virtual hug to their ‘amici italiani’ by singing Bella Ciao. 

Solidarity and Support for Medical Professionals

The Italian people are also doing their best to help doctors and medical personnel in any way they can. Even though restaurants and bars have been closed since March 11th, owners of pizzerias and bakeries all over Italy have decided to remain in operation with a reduced staff (often their own families) to provide hospital workers with free pizza or cornetti, sometimes with donations from other citizens who help them buy the raw material. Upholsterers and seamstresses are crafting new breathing masks for both health personnel and fellow citizens alike, trying where possible to make them as colorful as they can, to lift spirits up.

On a more technical level, people are rising to other kinds of challenges. For example, following an online plea for low-running medical materials, engineers Cristian Fracassi and  and their team succeeded in designing and 3D-printing valves for intensive care machines that are now being produced on small scale, filling critical gaps in supplies and saving the lives of patients hospitalized in Chiari, Lombardy. In Emilia Romagna, Marco Ranieri (professor at the Department of Medical and Surgical Studies at the University of Bologna), together with his colleagues and a local company, designed a ventilator machine which can provide oxygen to two patients once. The machine has already been tested at Sant’Orsola Hospital in Bologna, and arrangements are being made to start a wider production.

The Environmental Effects

A welcome side effect of Italy’s newfound stillness, and one that will hopefully inspire a constructive debate once this is all over, is the environmental one. Videos and pictures document how nature is stepping back in the scene. Day by day, satellites are showing the pollution rate dropping significantly, ducks came back to populate Rome’s famous fountains, dolphins have been spotted in Cagliari Port in Sardinia, and people are amazed at seeing Venice’s canals as clean as they’ve been in ages, a happy thought in such difficult times.

We Will Get Through This

What Italy has demonstrated is a strong will to react to an unprecedented crisis, a fierce attachment to life, and a renewed sense of community. This too shall pass, and we can’t wait to be the first to welcome you to our beautiful country, once everything is over.

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UPDATE: April 15th, 2020

It has now been six weeks since Italy began its national lockdown. What began as encouragement and inspiring acts of community and solidarity has turned into a deeper and heavier realization of the reality of the situation, and what will have to happen before the lockdown is lifted. We’re sure our American friends may understand this feeling. 

What is noteworthy, however, are the ways in which those initial reactions made space for quieter, more organized, resistant and long-term ones.

When a call for medical staff was sounded, hundreds of people volunteered; funds were raised on large and small scales, and volunteers kept working to provide elderly people and those in need with essential goods. Mayors committed fiercely to the safety of their own cities (you may have heard of Mr. De Luca!). The relief funds that the government allocated for families and freelancers started to arrive today after only two weeks.

The Curve is Flattening

We’re starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. It’s faint, but it’s all we need for the strength to keep going and stick it out until the end of the lockdown and prepare for our future in the light, hopefully sooner than later. This week, experts have declared that the curve is finally flattening: the number of people checking into intensive care continues to decline, and, on Easter Sunday, Italy saw the lowest number of deaths since March 19th. Umbria, the region where the Ciao Andiamo Italy office is located, reported only one new case today; together with Sardinia and a few others, it is among the regions that are getting closer to the zero-new-cases goal.

Some other major news is that Italy is slowly starting to reopen activities! Although the recommendation for caution remains and some counties are further postponing the deadline, not only are more and more restaurants and bars opening for home deliveries, but this week has also seen establishments such as bookstores, children’s clothing stores, and some others reopen, respecting a limited schedule and social-distancing rules. 

Updated measures should progressively arrive as we get closer to the last-set lockdown deadline on May 3rd. Whatever they will be, we trust that #andràtuttobene (everything will be alright).

 

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Italy is often summarized as the country of food, wine, history, and nature. But even more than any of these, family is everything in Italy. I had never known this to be more true than during the months that my team and I worked on a special trip to Italy for Joseph and Irene.

Knowing barely a sentence of Italian and hailing from upstate New York, Irene and Joseph, 85 years young, reached out to Ciao Andiamo to help connect them to their Italian heritage. Joseph’s parents had been born in the late 19th century in Italy, outside of Bari, Puglia. Although Joseph and Irene had visited Italy a number of times, they had never before been to the place of Joseph’s roots.

Joseph decided that now was the time to seek out his family history, to track down the place where his parents had grown up and perhaps even find some living relatives from their hometown.

Uncovering Joseph’s Italian Heritage

After hearing their story, we designed a two-week-long trip down the Adriatic coast, spanning the regions of Abruzzo and Puglia, and concluding near the town of Bari, where we hoped to help Joseph discover pieces of his ancestry.

Working with our incredible Italy team and genealogy experts based in southern Italy, we began our search. We weren’t armed with much: rough birth year estimates of Joseph’s parents, a surname whose spelling had changed after Joseph’s parents had immigrated to America, and the name of a hometown somewhere near Bari – which, as we would soon find out, was incorrect.

But after weeks of hard work, we were able to track down something quite special.

Finding More Than We Expected

First, we found the official birthplace of Joseph’s father, in the small town of Toritto. We started tracking down birth certificates and names of a couple of living cousins.

We found that one of the cousins, whose grandfather had been the brother of Joseph’s father, was still living in Toritto, and he had a brother who was also alive and well living in Canada. The cousins were overjoyed to learn about their American relatives, but we decided to keep the news quiet from Joseph and Irene for now, until we could be sure it was true.

We continued our research and met with more and more local residents in Toritto. Toritto is the kind of small Italian town where everyone knows everyone, and we were amazed to witness the whole town start to become abuzz with news of Joseph and Irene and their planned visit mere months away in the early fall.

A Touching (and Memorable) Reunion

October finally arrived, and Joseph and Irene set off on their journey to southern Italy. After a number of days relaxing and exploring different coastal and countryside towns, they spent two days at a local masseria, a farmhouse, near the historic center of Toritto. It was here that their Italian family would come to meet Joseph and Irene for the very first time.

I had the incredible fortune to be part of this meeting at the masseria. I arrived with our local partner Max to assist with translation and logistics and photographer Ksenija to document the reunion. We were incredibly honored to be included in such a special experience and were, of course, delighted to continue to help.

Excitement mixed with nervousness. We weren’t sure how the events of the family reunion would play out. Would the one cousin we had spoken with even show up? Would he bring along one or two other relatives as well? How long would they want to stay and visit, and what would they say?

On the day of the event, something amazing happened. Not one, not two, but 27 family members would show up at the masseria throughout the course of the evening, in what would turn into a beautiful six-hour-long reunion full of hugs and stories, laughter and emotion.

As you might imagine, the conversations were loud, animated, and at times confusing – deciphering all the intricacies of the family tree and translating between the English spoken by Joseph and Irene and the Italian dialect spoken by everyone else. But somehow, magically, the evening worked, and they were truly united as a family.

Celebrating La Famiglia

Since we had never imagined that so many people would be joining, the owners of the small masseria were only prepared for a dinner of 5-8 people. But when you invite guests over in southern Italy, you invite them, and we would need to find a way to pull together enough food and wine to accommodate a celebration for over 20 guests.

Incredibly, the owners and their small staff managed to whip up a huge feast in the kitchen, and we dined and drank wine into the wee hours of the morning.

Joseph, beaming from ear to ear throughout the night, made no fewer than three toasts to his new-found Italian family and those who helped make the evening possible.

The next day, we took Irene and Joseph to the historic center of Toritto, showed them the street where Joseph’s father was born, and dropped them off at Joseph’s cousin’s house, as the family had insisted that they join them the next day for lunch for a part two of the family reunion.

I am so incredibly grateful that I had the chance to lend a hand in writing such a beautiful story of Italian family, and to help create an experience that a teary-eyed Joseph told me he will always remember. I know I certainly will.

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